Heat hung in the air like a cloud of evil.
I drained the last drops from my water bottle and, through squinted eyes, stared into the gates of hell. It seemed I had chosen the hottest and haziest of days to visit Yad Veshem.
But this was only appropriate. In this place comfort would be rude...
By Guy Harrison
Yad Vashem sits atop Har Hazikaron (the Mount of Remembrance) in the outskirts of Jerusalem. It is immediately obvious to visitors that this is no warehouse for cold artifacts from a fading historical event. Yad Vashem is a sprawling 45-acre complex with many faces and many missions. Exploring it can be an unforgettable experience. This is a place that is active and alive. The museums teach, the architecture excites, the art stirs emotions and the memorials force abrupt psychological confrontations with the Holocaust. Yad Vashem is the world's most comprehensive place of respect and honor for victims. It is also the world's most important Holocaust documentation and research center.
Yad Vashem gives respect to the memory of the dead, something they were denied in life. The names of more than three million Holo-caust victims, for example, are preserved with dignity in the Hall of Names. More than 50 million pages of documents and some 100,000 photographs relating to the Holocaust are stored in the Archive. Yad Vashem obviously succeeds as a powerful reminder and warning for the two million visitors it draws each year from around the world. And it will undoubtedly do so for many generations to come.
The Historical Museum is central to the Yad Vashem experience. It contains many documents, pho-tographs and artifacts that tell the story of how the Nazis killed six million Jews in the 1930s and 1940s. The powerful exhibits are effective with few words. Included are enlightening clues about how prejudice evolved into oppression and then became murder. I observed a consistent reaction among the visitors in the museum. They seemed to struggle in their attempts to absorb the displays. Almost all, regardless of age, gender or nationality, did the same thing. They shook their heads and mouthed silent words of disbe-lief. It was obviously difficult for them to accept the horror before them.
Near the close of World War II in Europe, as many of the Nazi death camps were liberated, Supreme Allied Commander Dwight Eisenhower said that as many as possible should personally see what had oc-curred in the death camps. He predicted that people would claim one day that it had never happened, that it was simply too outrageous a crime to have really occurred. Given the shock on the faces of modern visitors to Yad Vashem, I think Eisenhower was right. Witnesses, lots of witnesses, are important. Yad Vashem gives witnesses to the Holocaust a permanent court in which they may testify for all time.
The eyes. More than a million children and babies died in the Nazi death camps. More powerful than that staggering number, however, was the quiet stare of one. I will never forget his eyes. Time and distance will never dull that little boy's stare into my heart.
The Children's Memorial at Yad Vashem is a small structure dug into a hillside. Within it are huge black and white photographs of several young victims. I am unsure for how long, but one of them chained me to the floor. I stared back at a cardboard image that is likely the only thing left of his existence. He was probably killed before he ever reached the age of ten. This means he never attended a university, never read great books or took a shot at becoming a great athlete. He never made love to a woman and never imagined the satisfaction of growing old. Why was so much stolen from him? Most would answer with a shallow tale of criminals and victims. The real answer is deeper. This little boy was born to the wrong team at the wrong time in the pathetic human game of division. The centuries keep rolling over and the names change but the game remains. The false walls of race, religion, and nations keep us lunging at our neighbor's throat. We obsess on ten differences and never see a thousand things we share in common. The result is loss, loss like the disconnected dead-end stare of a little boy that never grew up.
Given the challenges we face, humankind is in no position to discard resources, yet the destruction of one million young minds is the ultimate waste of potential. How, I wondered, can anyone continue to believe in and defend fabricated categories of humans when it leads to the murder of children like this boy at Yad Vashem?
One candle in the Children's Memorial is reflected numerous times by mirrors. It creates a galaxy of lost lives within the dark. A recorded voice drones on and on, delivering a roll call of young victims. In that room, I believe I scratched the surface of understanding the Holocaust. Six million Jews murdered is a shocking fact, of course. But who can ever know the meaning of it when measured in terms of individual lives? How can anyone imagine the lost dreams, crushed hopes and broken promises of six million humans?
The boy's stare held me for a long time. Other visitors surged by me without ever looking at me. The boy had captured them too. I watched a few Jewish visitors as they looked at the photo of the boy. I imagined their thoughts: "How could they do this to us?"
"They."
"Us."
The question contains the answer.
Suicide. History has dubbed the Holocaust a crime against humanity. I disagree. This de-scription suggests that the Holocaust was an attack upon humanity from something outside of humanity. It can be misleading to describe it as genocide or some unique episode of demons slaying angels. The Holocaust was suicide, or self-mutilation. It was humans killing humans in the name of labels, nothing new and nothing we have outgrown since then.
It is perhaps comforting to imagine the Nazis as a small band of madmen that took over much of Europe and single-handedly exterminated millions of civilians. If true, it lets a lot of people off the hook. Not only were far more Germans and other Europeans involved in carrying out the Holocaust, but we are all on the hook of guilt in a general sense, even those of us born later. We make this world and we are all of one species, regardless of our shallow perceptions of division. If we dare feel pride in the Apollo Moon landings or the creations of Michelangelo, then we must also share the shame when our family turns on itself. At its deepest roots, the Holocaust was about ignorance, about believing in labels to a point beyond love and respect for fellow humans. Labels should not have mattered to people then, and they do not mat-ter to me now. I am not a Jew, yet I feel great loss. I am not a Nazi, yet I feel great guilt.
Tears. As I walked the grounds of Yad Vashem, I had a recurring feeling that I was at a funeral service, or at least that I was at a cemetery.
I was.
Before entering the Hall of Remembrance, I was handed a yarmulke (Jewish skullcap) and told to put it on. I had not read about this particular building so I had no idea what to expect. I entered a large and gloomy tent-like structure with rough stone walls. A flame burned in the center of the room. Spread around the floor were inscriptions, names. I assumed they were the names of people, until one caught my eye: "Auschwitz"
The names of 22 Nazi death camps littered the floor. Auschwitz had been the most terrible of them all, designed to maximize murder efficiency. The camp killed thousands of prisoners per day at its peak. The premeditated murder that camps like Auschwitz represent takes the horror of the Holocaust beyond its death toll figures. It illustrates something very disturbing about the human potential for evil. This was no blood lust in the heat of battle. This was about smiling guards guiding children into gas chambers and boastful men sending home postcards to their families, bragging about the Jews they had killed.
To reduce fuel costs for camp crematoriums, engineers designed special trays to trap body fat as hu-man corpses burned in the ovens. The fat was then to be used as a fuel. The idea failed, however, because the prisoners had been so severely starved that they provided little body fat. Another example of murder efficiency was the use of "gas vans". Guards would load up to 40 prisoners into vans with specially sealed rear compartments. On the way to a burial or burning site, the vehicle's exhaust was piped into the com-partment, killing the prisoners by the time they arrived for disposal. More than 200,000 Jews were killed in this way between 1941 and 1943.
I thought about horrors such as these as I watched the lonely flame dance in the shadows of the Hall of Remembrance. I learned later that the ashes of some Holocaust victims are kept within a small crypt in the memorial. Beside me, a small and very old woman cried quietly as she stared out across the floor. I wondered if she had been in one of the camps. Did she lose a family member or close friend? Or does she simply care?
Hot metal. Yad Vashem's art surprised me. I had expected a depressing tour of evil. And while I did get that, I also encountered touching and inspirational art. Despite Jerusalem's cruel heat that day, I spent hours wandering around outside the buildings of Yad Vashem. Many powerful pieces are found throughout the grounds. One sculpture sits alone in the bushes. Named "Silent Cry", it effectively hints at the ache of hopelessness and abandonment that so many must have felt during the Holocaust.
A huge metal sculpture of Jewish prisoners writhing in pain and taking the form of barbed wire hovers above the Jerusalem skyline. Although the art is obviously disturbing, I found it uplifting as well. Here was a jagged and repulsive freeze frame of suffering, yet just beyond it was Jerusalem, a thriving city filled with Jewish families, alive and strong. It made me think about how resilient humans can be. For centuries Jewish people have been hated and killed, yet they live on and they do so with remarkable energy and suc-cess. Jews, for example, represent probably less than .2 percent of the world's population, but Jews have won something like 15 percent of all Nobel Prizes awarded.
I encountered another stunning sculpture (shown on the lead page of this article). It was pure agony in a human form, looking up at the sky while clutching...nothing.
I examined the face and found myself imagining the figure finding life and asking me for help. I wished that it could have.
blood.Military service is mandatory for most Israelis, and, apparently, a visit to Yad Vashem is part of basic training. On the day I was there, hundreds of soldiers with the youngest faces imaginable poured from buses and funneled into the museum. Later in the day while resting on a lawn I saw a large collection of their weapons left outside. Seeing those killing tools made me realize that Yad Vashem is more than a look back at history. Yad Vashem is a glance in the mirror. Ignorance blackened the skies of Europe with cancelled lives and people still weep over it today. Decades have past and the blood has not yet dried. But what has really changed?
Those warriors of the Holy Land that I saw that day seemed so young and innocent. Would they really kill strangers if ordered? Yes, most likely they would, because somewhere out there strangers are willing to kill them.
Standing in the wake of the Holocaust, we still cling to our tribes. The names change, the technology improves but we are no more sophisticated. Still, we cling to our beloved false walls rather than to one another. We remain apart for ridiculous reasons. Race, religion and nations remain life and death issues for many misguided members of the human family.
As it was in Europe more than a half century ago, the stage is set for evil's visit.
This article originally appeared in Cayman Executive magazine (second quarter, 2001)